SOUL-SEARCHING THROUGH THE STREETS OF CULTURE, COFFEE, CUTENESS, AND CAVES
As I began to write this article, I searched 'Vietnamese Love Songs' on YouTube. I wanted to imagine myself at one of those cute cafes in Hoi An (a city in Vietnam), where the speakers played slow, breezy romance songs in a language I could not understand. It is said that music can transcend language barriers.
The windows would face a beautiful street embraced by occasional rain, music playing, and the aroma of hot coffee. Now that I have entirely transported myself to November of 2023, the time I took my first international trip from India with one of my best friends in the world, let me hold your hand and take you through Vietnam: a country that mesmerized me and brought me intense joy for 11 days of my life. It is an experience I still carry and will take with me for the rest of my days.
Ho Chi Minh City
We started our journey from the southern part of the country, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam's most significant financial center. After checking into our homestay for the day and the next, we explored the city (please watch out for motorcycles here. They are in HUGE numbers). Ho Chi Minh is the party capital of Vietnam, with bustling pubs as the night falls. On the first day, we went around on foot, exploring the city and its beautiful markets selling local artifacts and delicacies. The streets have cute cafes and corner shops with flowers everywhere. We also covered the War Museum, which takes you through the gruesome history the Vietnamese shared with the war. You look around then and watch the celebratory spirit in people and wonder in awe at the resolve humans can have.
We then spent the day exploring food at hostel cafes, which included skillets, the infamous Coconut Coffee (we have lost count of coffees and green teas that we had), Bánh Mì (Vietnamese sandwich), banana pancakes, sticky chicken rice, and many more. In the evening, we took the water bus, which takes you around Saigon, another name for Ho Chi Minh. It is the best way to witness the city lights. We ended the night by walking through Bu Vien Street, with Pho (Vietnamese soup), and a beer bottle keeping us company. This street consists of bars, massage parlors, and eateries. It's music, lights, and celebration! We decided to skip two very crowded tourist places the following day and went around looking for hidden gems, like walking to the Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon and having one of the most therapeutic experiences of the trip: going to a movie theatre in a run-down mall and watching Taylor Swift's Eras Tour Movie. Screaming our lungs out and singing songs with Taylor was a powerful affair.
Da Lat
Our next destination was the quiet, little hill town of Da Lat, which we reached on the third morning. We were hopping from one city to the next by means of night sleeper buses, which were well-equipped and clean. Beautiful houses nestled on foothills; Da Lat was charming. We met our friendly hosts at a backpackers' hostel, a family of 4 and their puppy Ricky! A cab was arranged to take us to the Datanla rollercoaster ride. The rollercoaster is self-operated and takes you through a tiny, luscious forest to reach the Datanla waterfalls. It is an experience I am especially going to promote here. It was awesome. After heading to the Clay Tunnels next, we had lunch at a home café where, yet again, you had beautiful music flowing and a space for painting ceramic sculptures. Let's not forget an amiable lady who kept serving us refreshing Jasmine tea for free from the flask she had saved for herself. I remember the slight drizzle that started while we were seated at this home with a balcony that faced the hills. The rain mingled with the music that played and was a background score for all my heartwarming interactions with my friend that afternoon.
Hoi An
We took a bus that night to Hoi An, the lantern town of Vietnam. Our next three days would be spent in this magical little town with rice fields, temples, water, and lights. ‘Tangled’ movie fans, you are in for a treat here! We checked into another homestay run by an old couple. The beauty of homestays, I realize, is that you are living with a family, and you witness the tiny details of family life that goes on the side. Grandparents scolding grandchildren, the meals they prepare for the kids in the family, and the dogs being taken for walks; these observations are very personal.
Like other parts of Southern Vietnam, Hoi An welcomed us with a slight drizzle. Walking around Old Town in the morning after a delicious breakfast, we realized the number of lanterns we were coming across was mind-boggling in the best way. They are everywhere: in the streets, outside shops, on the boats, on trees, on windows. We couldn't wait for the night, and the night did not disappoint. It's a fairytale scene. Exploring the local food stalls, karaoke cafes, and walks around the lake, we made a new friend, Ming, a cute toddler by his mother's side selling potato twisters.
Cham Island
The Coconut boat ride at Hoi An and the Marble Mountains near Da Nang (nearby town to Hoi An) are bucket-list worthy! We also were blessed with the beauty of Cham Island, which, when researching, we figured was a hidden, quieter island. The motorboat ride to Cham Island with a group of older Vietnamese ladies who were sisters was a ride that gave instant dopamine.
If you are into Korean dramas, there is a drama called Summer Strike, where the female protagonist moves to a seaside town to heal and start a new life. Cham Island will remind you of the same. As you step foot on the island with its clean beaches and quiet life, you feel a heaviness lift off your shoulders. We spent one more pretty night roaming Hoi An and its lanterned streets before heading off to Ninh Binh.
Tam Coc
We reached Ninh Binh very early in the morning, specifically the town of Tam Coc. We were now in Northern Vietnam, and the temperatures had started dropping. Our homestay host was kind enough to lend us rooms even when we reached way before time. Ninh Binh is a very spiritual place—a town surrounded by lakes, limestone hills, Pagodas, and caves. The first day at Ninh Binh was spent taking the Tam Coc water boat ride and a trip to the Bich Dong pagoda. The boat ride was so serene, giving you the view of the enormous limestone hills and taking you under caves; it almost felt like a peaceful retreat.
We finally explored a spa in Tam Coc, which was refreshing. A small change in the plan led us to miss Sapa as the hours wasted on the commute to Sapa would mean rushing through the beautiful town. Instead, we extended our stay at Ninh Binh, exploring the Trang An boat ride routes this time. Watch the stones in the caves closely; they shine! My days in Ninh Binh were when peace washed over me, and a sense of comfort embraced me. Comfort and warmth: there are many names for this feeling you get when nature and spirituality come hand in hand to hug you. The many pagodas we visited in the days there had an atmosphere of absolute meditation. You felt that inside of you.
Hanoi
We said goodbye to Ninh Binh and took a train to Hanoi, our last destination! Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and a proper city. All our time in Hanoi was spent exploring restaurants, souvenir shops, a water puppet show, a live concert on the street, an open bus ride through the city, the train street (where the track is almost touching residences and shops on the side, THRILLING). We were in December, and the Vietnamese take Christmas seriously. I fell in love with the decorations that Hanoi was dressed in. It felt like I was part of a Christmas movie (I have a folder of pictures especially reserved for all the Christmas trees I witnessed in Hanoi). Thus, our time in Vietnam had come to an end for now. We took a flight back to Mumbai on the 4th Of December 2023.
Bon Voyage!
There are innumerable special memories I have held with me from this trip. I am delighted that this was a trip we did not book with a tour group but something we researched and planned by ourselves from scratch. Both of us girls, not being experienced travelers, had our inhibitions. However, the whole process of research and making this trip happen was cathartic in every possible way. It built in me confidence that I could explore more places again. A very special hug to the friendly people of every town we visited. Also, a big special shout out to members of the Vietnam subreddit who helped us gain more knowledge about the many hidden gems the country possessed.
As cliched as it sounds, travel is a good teacher. One of the most important things I learned is that when you are on foot, you can witness many things you may otherwise miss. Also, a trip can be extremely fulfilling when you target not just tourist places but also the everyday experience, the interactions, and the culture. Each day was new learning: exploring people, food, culture, and places. If you are planning to visit Vietnam, I hope you have an equal, if not more, fantastic experience. Bon Voyage!